Whisk the egg yolk with the condensed milk in a small bowl for two to three minutes, until it triples in volume and turns pale and thick.
Brew a strong dark-roast coffee and pour it into a small warmed glass.
Spoon the egg cream over the top so it sits as a distinct layer.
Sit the glass in a bowl of hot water to keep it warm.
Serve with a spoon and eat the top before drinking the bottom.
Invented at the Metropole in Hanoi in the 1940s when fresh milk was unavailable, and still poured at Giang Café, run by the same family. Whisk the yolk longer than feels necessary — the volume is what makes it a float rather than a slick.
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